The Camino Provides

Santo Domingo to Belorado – 23kms

I know I am supposed to be all noble and everything on the Camino, but revenge felt so good this morning.

The night before, we had a woman who kept coming in the room and turning the light on and would walk out and deliberately leave it on, despite most people being in bed. After the fourth time, people cracked it, but she indicated she could do it until 10pm. I couldn’t believe the complete lack of consideration for anyone else.

Anyway, come 6am, all of the people who had been in bed earlier were up moving about getting ready while she was trying to sleep. I think some people were making a bit more noise than they ordinarily would have and my torch may have “accidentally” flashed her way a few times. Small minded I know, but made my early start worth it.

BC? She of course slept through the whole thing so I had to fill her in on the drama. The Camino is clearly rubbing off on her as she voiced some suggestions on what we could have done this morning whereas at the start of the Camino, she was all Canadian polite!

Off in darkness again which was fine until we missed a slight little arrow but fortunately we had someone near us to put us on the right path.

I’m not sure it worked out for us though as we ended up shadowing a field that was emanating a horrific smell. It got so bad we were dry retching and my eyes were watering. God knows what they were putting into the fields, but I’m not sure I want to start thinking about what my food is absorbing!

I stopped off to take in the fabulous view below causing BC to move ahead.

I realised how lovely it was with just the moonlight shining down, so I turned my headlamp off and just walked in the moonlight. There was a path off to the side, so I turned the lamp back on briefly to check I wasn’t missing an arrow before returning to just the moonlight.

When I innocently caught back up to BC, she was ready to whack me with her pole! With all my walking about in the moonlight and the lamp on and off, she thought I was some guy out to attack! I think she finally let go of her death grip on her poles 5mins later.

With the mainly flat road and cold wind, we made the 7kms to Ganon in an hour and 20mins. This was with numerous stops to admire the streaks of colour lighting up the sky behind us.

Gradually, as we neared Ganon, I could hear soft music playing.

Walking up the steps, we found another little oasis. The source of the goregous music was a food truck serving cafe con leche, juice, croissants, danishes and so much more. There was seating under the trees, a toilet and even blankets.

My breakfast companion

Other than this food truck, the rest of the village was a ghost town. Not a single person was out on the street, nor was there anything open. It was totally eerie.

Leaving the village, the view was stunning with the sun hitting the fields. How many times can you say “oh wow” on the Camino?

Redecilla del Camino was only 4kms on from our breakfast stop so we continued on without stopping other than a quick pic here and there.

By Castildelgado though, we had walked over 12kms and my feet were starting to make some noise, which is more than can be said for the village itself as it was another ghost town. We pulled up on a couple of metal seats, took our socks and shoes off and rested them on the cold metal. It instantly took the throbbing away and I actually reached a point where I was shivering!

From here, so much of the landscape simply looked like it had been stripped bare. I felt like I was in a nuclear waste zone.

The stretch to Villamayor del Rio felt endless. As I was climbing yet another incline, I said out loud that I want the town to appear, that is what I needed the Camino to provide me. When we crested the hill, I think I managed a jump for joy upon seeing the village.

By this stage, we were ready to stop for some food, but it was another ghost town with no people and nothing open.

We sat with an Aussie couple and ate the dredges of food left in our packs including an orange I had been lugging around since Lorca, some 120kms ago! That thing was bloody heavy!

It was only 5kms from here to Belorado, but it felt like double this due to a huge head wind and the end of a stage that had predominantly been mostly along the highway.

Walking to our Albergue, we were met by… Irish! Her knee had blown up in the last day, so she’d decided to do a shorter day and catch the bus to get her to Burgos before heading home. I personally think she missed us too much!

We managed to switch rooms so we were all bunking together and with only 6 beds and us knowing 50% of the occupants, we figured the chances of having a snorer would be minimised. Uhhh no. A lovely lady took an afternoon sleep and has given us an indication of what our night will be.

Another pretty village once we rugged up to go for a walk.

Dinner was a rowdy and late affair at our accommodation Cuatro Cantones. I am yet to understand why the Pilgrims meals have to be served so late when most of us are in bed by 8pm!

We have a duo of snorers, so sleep may be elusive again tonight.

 

14 thoughts on “The Camino Provides

  1. Great reading Karen, thinking of you, Bree, Anna and the other family members doing this pilgrimage with you. Looks amazing and sounds fun, it’s great when you are with a group of different personalities and snorers!

    1. Thanks Claire. Different personalities yes, snorers… not so much! Learning to look after myself better and treating myself when I need to. xx

  2. Hi Karen, I just got up on your blog posts. I’ve been thinking about you and hoping that you are finding that your walk is filling you with a deep satisfaction, not just your external journey, but your internal journey as well. Blessing, dear Karen. Journey on.
    XoBev

    1. It is Bev. Every day I feel Bree with me. Every time I have a doubt, she sends me something to let me know what I’m doing is right. It is an incredibly strong connection. xx

  3. Cafe con Leche, what is that Karen!? Oh the snoring I feel your pain. Wish you could avoid them but it’s inevitable!
    Hugs you are doing such an amazing job!

    1. Coffee with milk Jacqui which is hilarious given I don’t drink coffee at home! But it’s nicer here, not bitter.
      I stayed in a hostal last night with one other and got an amazing sleep. Thinking I need to do a bit more planning ahead so I can get rooms with less people or on my own but it is all great though. xx

      1. Oh that’s what I thought but I thought you didn’t drink coffee from a previous blog. This journey is so special and it makes me want to do it!

        1. I dont drink it! I often wonder if it tastes better here or simply because you fall into the first village and are desperate for anything!
          I don’t think my words do it justice Jacqui. There is something special about it and learning to listen to yourself. xx

  4. Hi Karen,
    Awwww…to your big beautiful smile 😃 and stunning images. That would lift anyones spirits. Just amazing every day. The kms are clicking over Karen. You must do proud of yourself.!! You are doing it, alright. Trial and tribulations- for sure. Every day there are the crappie bits and you don’t seem to let that take away from your bigger picture experience. I’m pretty sure you are mostly writing in a way that is entertaining us/your blog audience and you crack me (probably all of us) up each blog. Love it!! Thank you.

    Go girl!! 💪

    Sandy xoxo 😎

    PS Sorry to hear about your friend Irish having to go home with her knee injury. That would suck 😌

  5. One of my Camino family had his 30th birthday the day we arrived in Belorado & the lovely owners of Cuartro Cantones made him a birthday cake, such lovely people. Loving your journey, brings back so many memories.x💕🥾

  6. You seem to be enjoying it a bit more now and you look happy.
    So good you’ve made friends to share your journey with.
    The photos of the sunrise are beautiful.
    So much beautiful scenery and im sure its even more beautiful seeing it in person.
    Take care
    Dianne xx

    1. Forgot to say in my comments before what a fab photo . You look so happy and it makes me so proud and happy of what you do everyday. love and hugs xxPat

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