Lestedo to Melide – 20kms
In Riley’s words, today was crap. Actually, his words were a little stronger, but trying to keep this pg.
Our luck ran out with the rain. It was raining as we left our accommodation and it didn’t let up all day.
It was a 5km walk to Palas de Rei, so we found somewhere to stop for breakfast once we got there. Nothing special, but out of the rain, great WiFi and warm. Riley and I both spent a bit of time catching up on things. I think part of it was hoping the rain might ease like it has for the last week. No such luck.
Before we could continue, Riley wanted to try and find some hair gel as he had left his behind in Sarria. I told him no one cares. He does.
No joy in the Pharmacy or supermarket. I however, got excited to see the heavenly pastry thing I’d had from a couple of days ago, so bought a couple for us to go.
We passed through some interesting villages that I was able to take a few quick pics of in the wet. I laughed when I saw the royal looking chimneys. There was almost an element of ‘keeping up with the Jones’ about them, each one bigger than the last!
My lovely Camiga who has been sharing various tips with me along the way had mnetioned there was a place about 5kms out of Palas de Rei that served crepes and smoothies. When I told Riley about it, he was determined we were going there for second breakfast.
From Palas de Rei, the rain was really coming down and we were feeling soaked, but physically ok. Mentally… I’m not so sure Riley was doing ok. I think the monotonous walking in the wet was getting to him.
Initially, he kept searching each cafe looking for the crepes and moving on when he couldn’t find them, despite wanting to stop to get out of the rain. His desire for crepes was overriding his wish to get out of the rain.
Eventually though, the ongoing rain was wearing him down and he was talking about just walking all the way to Melide because he was over it. We were walking in mud and more of a river than a path.
We arrived in Casanova, 11kms from our starting point, wet and miserable and I knew we needed to stop, crepes or not. Following the golden rule of the Camino, we passed the first place and walked into the second. I realised before Riley did, that somehow, we had walked into the crepe place!
A very big thank you to my angel Camiga for this little tidbit. His spirits were lifted considerably.
While we were sitting there, an army of pilgrims filed past in a single line, all with poles, boots marching and all completely in sync. There were at least 30 of them. You could almost hear the drill sergeant calling out “left, left, left, right, left!” I couldn’t get my camera quick enough and even the staff stood and watched in laughter.
The only downside to this place (apart from the incredible BO), was there had been nowhere to try and dry our raincoats a little, so when it was time to leave, we were pulling wet jackets back on.
We had 9kms to go and my body was starting to struggle. I was incredibly wet and cold, while also being hot from the exertion of trying to move quickly.
At Ribeira Sacra, the Camino provided. Inside a cafe was a roaring (and I do mean roaring) fire. They had it stuffed with wood and the fan on full blast. It was heavenly standing in front of it, warming my chilled bones.
We hung our jackets up in front of the fire and they dried in no time. While we were waiting, I ordered a cafe con leche to help warm my insides.
Mostly dried out, we headed out for the last 5kms. The rain made it feel like 10kms. I managed one last photo of the medieval bridge before finally arriving into our accommodation.
We were two very drowned rats that walked in the door. I quite literally peeled my clothes off and soaked under a hot shower until I finally felt alive again.
Once Riley had his shower, we dropped all our clothes off to our host to be washed and dried ready for tomorrow. With all of my clothes in the wash, I borrowed one of Riley’s tops, put on my pj’s and climbed into bed and stayed comfortably snugged up for the next three hours.
Food once again dominated and sadly, our accommodation didn’t have it on site, meaning we had to go outside again. I wasn’t a fan of this. Where’s UBER Eats when you need it?
Riley was being far more dominated by finding hair gel.
Thank goodness the world righted itself and he found something. 🙄
We ate nearby, (sadly not Pulpo, the octopus dish Melide is famous for) and went straight back to the room and watched a movie on Netflix. Far better end to the start of the day.
Fingers crossed for a better day tomorrow.