The Contrariness of the Camino

Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz – 20kms

Yep, the Camino is like a baby. Just when  you think you totally have it down pat, it decides otherwise.

I was a bit more sluggish today and definitely did not have wings. But, given it was a short walk (I love that the thinking now is that 20kms is a “short” walk), I wasn’t too concerned.

Despite leaving later at 7am, the temperature was so cold. I had to move faster simply because I thought I would freeze solid if I didn’t!

It was still dark and I was walking without my headlamp on again, so I entertained myself by puffing my breath in the cold air like a steam train and sounding out “I think I can, I think I can.” Small things amuse you enormously I think at this point on the Camino.

I was amused again as I could hear a Spanish couple coming up behind me bickering at each other. I figured I should turn my headlamp on so they would know I was there. They stopped talking completely, the man walked 20mtrs ahead of the woman, passing me quickly and the woman wished me Buen Camino as she passed me. Another 20mtrs later, the woman had caught up with the man and the bickering started up again.

Beyond this, the sky was breathtaking. It probably took me longer to walk today purely due to the constant looking back in amazement.

What kinda freaked me out though was I looked up and I could see the milky way and I could see an arrow pointing in the direction of where I was heading. Apparently, the milky way follows the Camino trail, but this was just weird.

Today’s breakfast pit stop wasn’t for nearly 12kms, so I was starving by the time I arrived into Hontanos. That, and desperately needing to pee as there are no longer the trees or bushes to hide behind.

I liked the look and feel of Hontanos and I think it would have been a nice place to stay.

This part of the Meseta is nothing like I was expecting. I thought it would be kilometre after kilometre of flat stretches of nothingness, but it was nothing like that. It even had big green patches.

We were travelling along and we got chatting to a Danish man. At the bottom of a hill and at a point where we were joining a road, a man was sitting in a car and started shaking a basket at us. We walked over and Danish guy gets a stamp and takes something out of the basket.

BC and I had enough sense to get the stamp and refuse the basket item because as soon as the man had stamped our Credentials and the Danish guy had taken something out of the basket, he put his hand out for payment.

Danish guy had us doubled over with laughter when he caught up to us after being suckered into paying, wondering how the man responded when asked what he did for a living. Um, I sit in a car at the bottom of a hill waiting for suckers.

Not long after this were the beautiful ruins of the convent San Anton. Apparently you can stay here in summer without electricity. 😐

Castrojeriz was less than 3kms from here, so everyone was getting a spring in their step to reach their destination. It was one of those locations that you can see off in the distance to help pull you in.

It was with relief to step into aCien Legaus, our accommodation for the evening. Once we checked in, the host picked up my bag and showed us to a sweet Spanish style room.

The best thing about this place? We could order the Pilgrims meal at any time from 6pm rather than having to wait until 7:30pm.

We found a supermarket to get some supplies for walking the next stage of 26kms and was back by 6pm. Dinner wasn’t anything special (better than the previous night) but dessert. Oh, was divine. An Oreo cheesecake.

When I told the young girl how amazing it tasted as she was taking our plates away, she told me she had made it. Best dessert so far.

Lovely stay here, especially given I am already in bed and it isn’t even 8pm! It’s still light outside for crying out loud and I am quite happily ready for sleep.

Big day tomorrow.