Feet of Wings

Burgos to Hornillos del Camino- 21kms

Amazing what some rest can do. I set off this morning and my feet felt like they had wings.

The first couple of hours are nothing to write home about. It took well over an hour just to walk out of Burgos and then it was another hour of walking near the highway. This is really the most unpleasant part of the Camino.

I walked in comfortable silence with a Spanish woman who didn’t speak any English for the early part of the morning. She had followed me into a bakery on the outskirts of Burgos, but took a misstep and fell over. I ran over to help and shared some of my pharmacy with her.

The first pit stop for the all-important cafe con leche wasn’t until Tardajos, 10km into the trip. A fabulous little cafe had created the perfect stop and was drawing pilgrims across the road like the pied piper.

Full with toast, coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice and boots emptied of rocks, I was off again.

Just 2kms later was the village Rabé de las Calzadas.

Walking through the village, I could hear Ava Maria playing out of the local church, drawing me in. As I stood there looking around, an elderly Spanish lady gestured me over for a stamp for my Credential.

After thanking her, she placed a small medallion on a string around my neck, said what I’m assuming was a kind of blessing and kissed me on each cheek. Standing there silently while she did this, I could feel the tears rolling down my cheeks. She smiled so kindly at me and sent me on my way. Words cannot explain this moment.

There was some incredible mural artwork here including an acknowledgement to Denise Thiem, a Pilgrim who was killed by a farmer while walking the Camino in 2015.

From here, I’ve entered the Meseta. The scenery is stark, but beautiful. I’m not sure why people talk about skipping this section.

This is the field where they grow the rocks to cover the Camino with!

5kms out of Hornillos, I met JJ (pronounced GG) from Brittany, France. We talked all the way into town. He was on his sixth Camino, starting from his front door, so had already walked 1400kms. The first year, he walked the Camino in 27 days! He tells me he was younger then, (58!)

This time, he is walking in memory of his wife who passed away. He is carrying his credential and a credential for his wife.

When we arrived at Hornillos, I was actually the second person in the door of Hornillos Meeting Point. I felt fabulous. I had a shower, did my washing and hung it out, all by 1pm!

Once we did a wander around town, I went back and lazed the afternoon away on a deck chair in the garden. I even pulled my speaker out and had music playing, much to the delight of people who came and sat with me. I also finally ate the olives I bought in Lorca!

At 6:30pm, we trooped off to a restaurant recommended by one of my Ladybirds. I sent the others ahead while I went to scoop up JJ from mass.

I approached some elderly Spanish ladies who had walked out of the church to try and determine if Mass had finished as I didn’t want to interrupt it. Clearly my Spanish is terrible, because next thing, they had me bundled up inside to receive the Pilgrim’s blessing.

The priest handed me an English translation of the reading and we all received the blessing. Afterwards, we were all asked to sing a song from our own country. I ducked behind the person in front and then managed to get myself out of there and up to the restaurant.

I hate to break my Ladybird’s heart, but things have changed significantly in the restaurant and not worth the recommendation. We still hadn’t eaten our main meal by 8:30pm after being there for two hours! Every time the door opened, we looked up in hopeful anticipation, only to be crushed. We started to joke about being locked out of the Albergue at 10pm.

Our meals finally arrived and I was stuck with a four cheese pasta as the only other option was lasagne. It was so claggy, my stomach now feels like cement.

The best bit of the whole night was a fabulous strawberry gin & tonic.

Everyone had their money on the table ready to go as soon as the last person had finished. It was one of those evenings where it is so bad, it becomes funny! We all couldn’t stop laughing when we finally made it out of there.

The late finish meant that we were “those people” who pack their bag late while others are trying to sleep. Fortunately, seven of the 12 beds were ours. Two others are still waiting for food, so I hope they make lockout.

All in all, one of the best days or am I already saying that about every day?

10 thoughts on “Feet of Wings

  1. I’m enjoying all basically but especially the human interaction stories thank you for sharing your “ moments” the bring the journey to real life. I feel travel is the learning of thousands of eyes you’ll never look into again. 💖❤️💙

    1. Travel gives you so an appreciation for the world around you and the people and their differeces. I love it all. 🙂

  2. I love reading about your journey.
    You’re doing great.
    It sounds like youre settling in now.
    The little villages look beautiful, so much history.
    Have you left Renee’s photo anywhere as yet?
    Thinking of you,
    Dianne xx

    1. Hi Dianne,
      I love all the villages. There is just so much history in them.
      Renee is still with me. I have left some photos purely from them popping into my head unexpectedly and somehow they have been right for the person. Of Renee tugs at me, I will take a photo and send you a message, though I don’t have you on Facebook to send to you via messenger. xx

  3. HA HA HA Karen did you really say this is where they grow the rocks??? and stones in your boots ?? Must admit some of the roads look long and boring good on you.I never did ask you if you knew about Denise as I didnt want to scare you or make you sad for her, but being 4 years ago and the thousands who are walking although very tragic and terribly sad for everyone it was a one off thank god. Love it today how happy you woke up and off and out. hugs xx

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