Another Day on the Meseta

Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino – 24kms (plus an extra 2kms due to forgetting my poles!)

If it wasn’t for my feet screaming at me, I wouldn’t have thought I had effectively walked 26kms today.

The air was crisp and with no city lights or moonlight, the stars shone brilliantly in the sky. With a slightly later start though, it wasn’t long before the world was lighting up with one of the most brilliant sunrises I have seen so far.

I was once again chatting to Texas and somehow ended up on politics. Probably not the best topic on the Camino when talking with a conservative Texan.

The worst thing about the Meseta is a serious lack of trees to hide behind to pee, so I was very relieved to walk into San Nicolas del Real Camino for a toilet break.

I had to hop about waiting for someone else to come out and that someone else turned out to be Francoise!

Afterwards, Francoise pointed out all these beautiful photographs on the wall, taken from what looked like in the 20’s. The humanity captured in them was just stunning.

Pit stop over, Francoise and I headed off together. As we were chatting away, we were discussing how the Camino can mess with your head. I was telling her about my grouchy day compared to the day when I was swinging my poles around.

As I did this, I realised I had left my poles behind in the village, a full km away! The horror of having to double back to get them and add more kms to the day was sickening.

There was much sympathy from everyone I passed who questioned why I was going the wrong way though.

I think I pushed myself a little too hard to make up the lost time as by the time I arrived into Sahugun, my legs and feet were really starting to suffer.

I walked around a corner and practically bumped into Jean. She was far more her sprightly self which was lovely to see.

She pointed me to a nice looking cafe to rest and there was Francoise again! (There was also a VERY attractive Spanish man who I saw in a village a couple of days ago who is cycling. He smiled at me then and again today. He even attempted to speak to me about our sore muscles. I would be more than happy to see him again along the way!)

Anyway…. I ordered a delicious pastry and cafe con leche and sat down outside, before having to get up again to get my poles from inside the store!

I enjoyed the break and waved at hot Spanish guy when he waved goodbye to me before having to head off myself. I still had 10kms to go and it was one of those days where I just wanted to get there.

As we were nearing the edge of town, I saw the beautiful archway.

It was here that Francoise noticed the plaque depicting the halfway point of the Camino.

We got moving pretty quickly though because the wind was whipping up and the sky looked threatening.

I was doing okay for the first 5kms, but the wind became almost gale force and we were having to lean into it to keep walking. The last 5kms felt like 10kms and I was starting to hobble again.

I’d booked Bercianos 1900, but when I arrived, the man at reception told me that the four room dorm I had booked on booking.com was full, so I am now in a 16 bed dorm. Fortunately, not all beds are taken and everyone is claiming not to be a snorer so here’s hoping for a good night sleep.

I must have had that pathetic look on my face again, because the host carried my bag upstairs (after I again had to duck back and grab my poles from reception!) and then kindly patted my arm as he left me.

The bunk beds are cute as each bed has a privacy curtain and the ultimate joy – a shelf with light and charging port per bed.

Dinner was great for me too – roasted vegetables with goat cheese for entree, quinoa with vegetables for main and a Cornetto for dessert! Outside of the Pinxtos in Logrono, best meal so far.

Happily tucked up and time for bed. Just another day on the Meseta.